Diesel Fall/Winter 2023 RTW collection ft. Durex

Milan Fashion week came and went, but one thing to note is that Diesel is so sexy, it should come with contraception. Quite literally. I’m joking. Not. 300,000 Durex condoms are to be dispensed, for free, at Diesel stores worldwide. Glenn Martens’ collaboration with Durex mainly highlighted Diesel’s democratic stance on sex positivity and individual freedom, ‘For Sucsexful Living’ in their Fall/Winter 2023 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Martens went above and beyond to promote individual freedom, choice, pleasure and play with an opulent mountain of 200,000 Diesel x Durex co-branded condom boxes, and 72 breath-taking looks. Invitations were, of course, complemented with a sex toy, and Martens made good on his promise of opening Diesel to the public, with 3,000 people claiming free tickets online, and an additional 1,600 tickets saved for students.

Martens says the collection is “more condensed and concentrated, more grown up, fun and strong and playful.” It is evident the capsule collaboration stimulated a theme for the collection, with jeans, hats and t-shirts embellished with the ‘For Sucsexful Living’ slogan. Durex’s logo was also remixed with Diesel’s iconic ‘Big D’ as a blended logo that was featured on t-shirts and hoodies. Martens’ continuous dedication to reviving and democratising Diesel, is what motivates me to go on.

The collection was characterised by distress, and androgyny to some degree, as Martens expressed that “there are four pillars of Diesel- denim, utility, pop and artisanal- and we push the experimentation with each of them.” And Diesel did just that. Martens brought fabrics like, denim, cotton and tulle together to create a distressed, democratic and shredded naked look, in tops, jeans, skirts, dresses and even jumpsuits. Models paraded around the condom centrepiece in double layered waistband jeans, as well as sheer, see-through garments that had been layered with denim. This concept mostly led the show and truly represents the raw aesthetic Diesel is renowned for.

Look 12: This glistening, naked, maxi dress is so stunning! I love the denim details that leaves a shredded effect, and the way the silhouette is exaggerated by the sheer panels- it almost gives the illusion of the dress being wet. As though the model has just emerged from the sea in slow motion, with the moonlight shinning on her. I appreciate the way elegance is accentuated by the delicate, spaghetti straps, contrasting the denim cameos. Sexy and street. Giovanni Giannon via wwd.com.

Workwear chic dominated parts of the show, with oversized shoulder-pads on blazers that came with matching asymmetric skirts and trousers. Martens had an interesting play on some workwear garments with patterns- decorating pantsuit sets with pinstripes and denim creases. Other workwear pieces included oversized, brown leather blazers, and distressed denim blazers with leather patchwork.

I’ll be real, I loved the knitwear. It really captured the falling-apart-dystopian aesthetic the worlds been obsessed with lately (and rightfully so, mind you). The co-ords and dresses were so effortlessly edgy, yet relaxed. Diesel really embraced the knit-balaclava look that’s been trending, pairing it with matching hollow-out sweaters, giving a crotchet impression. The sex appeal was real. There were a few silk numbers that looked as though they’d been draped over the models, which were held up by dainty chains, giving a heavenly, angelic vibe, while juxtaposing the rest of the line.

Look 19: Hunny! Have the seen this piece?! I’m totally besotted by everything about this look; the length, distress, design and fit. The way the material is practically melting off her, but the ‘Diesel’ is so strong and prominent. I love the way green has been manipulated to the fullest with the different tones in the knitting. I can’t imagine this look without those yellow, acid-wash pointed-toe boots and yellow tinge quilted bag. This look just does it for me okayyy. Giovanni Giannon via wwd.com.

Martens implemented a futuristic vibe with models coated in metallic pink and blue paint for funky and colourful denim co-ords. The yellow-acid-washed and basic blue denim hooded maxi dresses were almost as impressive as the jellyfish hem dresses that built further on the dystopian discourse of the collection. The futuristic motif re-emerged later in the collection through tight, black, catsuit like garments and black leather-like two-pieces with a black shearling trim, stamped with the classic ‘D’ pendent. Other garments, like skirts, dresses, jackets and two-piece sets were printed with graphics of saturated smiles to break up the collection, with brilliant and loud colours like blue, red and yellow.

Look 33: Okay this one is for my sci-fi babes. Firstly, that metallic pink hair and body paint, is just, chileeee. This is gorgeous, the unique complexion brings out the essence of this bright, colourful, playful look. I love the distressed hem on the top and especially the slit, Diesel just love wowing us. The pink undertone of this look speaks volumes, particularly next to those splashes of colour and the iconic shoulder bag in a champagne tone. Let's not sleep on those pink diamanté mules that just complete the look. Muah! *chef’s kiss*. Giovanni Giannon via wwd.com.

In terms of outwear, its trench-coat season baby. And in different materials, styles and colourways like, black leather, extremely laddered denim or yellow and green tone extravagant and sculptured pieces. Some were decorated with cracked or marbled leather detailing, or hoods. The selection was endless.

So, its final, the naked look is definitely back- with Diesel’s stamp of approval. The whole show just gave major Big D energy. The models looked incredible and handsomely articulated the ‘rip your clothes off’ narrative that was carried throughout the show. Everything is so sexy and provocative, elegant but street. Glenn Martens set out to create a line that was identifiable with us, and it was hunny, in as many ways imaginable. If I die young, please bury me in anything from this collection.

Kisses,

P 💋 xo